Page 26 - Cape-Camera-Sept-Oct-2021

September/October 2021 Cape Camera

was at sunset, which was magnificent every evening. Each small Krakadouw. The rock formations and rural culture are excep-
sound magnified across the stillness. The sky turned orange and tional.
fiery red, mirrored in the still water of the river, broken only by
the occasional plop and ripple of fish catching unfortunate in-
sects. In the dark of night stars covered every part of the sky,
extra bright in the clear air, but the moon soon rose and out-
shone them. There was no intrusion, no electricity or vehicles
and it was so easy to breath in the fresh uncontaminated air.
We needed nothing after a good meal, but a soft pillow and the
lullaby of the water trickling endlessly. There was however the
question of going to the loo – it was quite an adventure stum-
bling in the moonlight to the designated areas with a spade, a
toilet roll and a paper bag (for the loo paper which is burnt eve-
ry morning). My imagination ran wild and frightening creatures
seemed to lurk in every shadow and underfoot. But I made it
back to the tent okay with nothing to fear but fear itself.
There is a lot to do around this area and people are very friendly,
so I planned to stay a while. Next time I’d like to explore Clan-
william and Heuningvlei, perhaps on a donkey cart and make
sure I plan nights with no moon for star trails. I even have a
picturesque abandoned house with old tree picked out as an
earth reference.
I returned home rejuvenated in body, mind and soul, enriched
by having more insight into the areas I travelled to by being
able to return and research more about them. Travel in my
own back yard is like that. Learning about the history and at-
tributes of an area enables me to appreciate it more, to find the
vantages at different times of the year and see the details I may
have missed. It also helps to know the facts when describing or
showing what we have here. It’s accessible and affordable and
Of course finally this came to an end, we were met by a bus with
trailer some 50kms further along, outside the park, then spent easy to return to.
the last night at the Amanzi camp next to the river. I travel my own back yard all the time, at home in the area or a
I took my time travelling home, after a long delay at the border bit further. I look at it through different eyes through volunteer-
for Covid testing. This part of the country, the Northern Cape, ing in conservation, tutoring, joining walking groups and plan-
into the Cedarberg is another favourite of mine. I chilled out at ning short excursions on my own or with friends. South Africa is
Clanwilliam then went over the Pakhuis Pass to stay at Travellers unique in the world with a huge diversity of plants and animals,
Rest. The cottages there are charming, small and rustic but cer- exceptional geological formations and differing topography
tainly welcoming and well equipped. They’re spread out over a and climate close together. The Fynbos Floristic Kingdom, mag-
few farms, with views of the hills and fields with unique Cedar- nificent kelp forests, and Cape Fold mountains are spectacular
berg rock formations, flora and fauna in abundance. and unique in the world. A day’s travel takes you from coast to
coast; a half hours walk can get you from sea to mountain.
Part of the group incorporates the Sevilla Rock Art Trail, which I Although a tour is not the same for me as when discovering
walked along during my stay. It has ten sites of rock paintings, everything for myself, tour activities can be an introduction to
recorded in a guide by Peter Slingsby and on sale in the farm unknown parts and are now available in all areas of the country.
stall restaurant and curio shop near the entrance. I always feel
privileged to walk that trail, contemplating the mysteries of the The towns along the Cape Namibia Route and indeed all of
artists and their people and lifestyles. The age and meanings South Africa are increasingly popular with people from other
of the paintings are uncertain, but the characterizations have countries because of their unique and diverse features. We have
much to admire and much of the lifestyle of bygone genera- it all - right here where we are.
tions can be speculated from them. It is here that I saw eland,
porcupine, striped field mice and caracal in previous times. The
agama bloukop lizards still bask in the sun looking with bale-
ful beady eyes, and raptors still circle above. I find the rock figs
most fascinating and walked around some of the paths through
the hills to see them. The diversity of floral species here makes
it a good base during the spring flower season, which usually
starts earlier there than further south. The end of July or begin-
ning of August is a good time to go for this, but later on when
the geophytes bloom is also good. Summer temperatures
reach into the forties. Conversely winter nights can be freez-
ing, so Spring and Autumn, with more mild temperatures, is the
best time to go. If you’d like to see my AV of the trip, email me, Cathy, on arix-
Travellers Rest is just a 25 km scenic drive from the Biedouw Val- oma@icloud.com. Travel contacts: Amanzi Trails River Adven-
ley, famous for spectacular displays of flowers in the spring. One tures: https://www.amanzitrails.co.za; Comehike Hiking Club:
of my all-time favourite drives from there is to Heuningvlei, just https://www.comehike.co.za; Travellers Rest: https://w w w.
10 km further along. This is a village lost in time, a Moravian travellersrest.co.za
community in the Northern Cedarberg, at the foot of Mount *) From the song Shangri La by Mark Knopfler

25 Cape Town Photographic Society